When it comes to men’s dress shoes, the range of styles can be overwhelming. Three classic types that often come up in conversation are monk shoes, captoe shoes, and brogues. Each has its unique characteristics and works best with certain
suits or occasions. Here’s a breakdown of what sets them apart and how to style them.
What Are They? Monk shoes are sleek, stylish shoes that fasten with a buckle or two (single monk or double monk). Unlike traditional laced shoes, the buckle adds a distinct, sophisticated touch. These shoes can be made from leather or suede, and the more polished the finish, the more formal they feel.
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Best Suit Pairing: Monk shoes are versatile but lean toward semi-formal to formal attire. They pair best with a two-piece suit for a modern, slightly edgy look. If you’re wearing a dark-colored suit, like navy or charcoal, double monk shoes in a sleek black or brown will elevate the ensemble without being too flashy.
Tip: Avoid wearing monk shoes with overly casual outfits. They tend to look out of place with chinos or jeans unless you’re intentionally going for a bold, fashion-forward vibe.
Captoe Shoes
What Are They? Captoe shoes are characterized by a horizontal seam across the toe, which creates a “cap” on the shoe. This style has a long history and has evolved into a timeless classic. Captoe shoes come in both oxford and derby variations, which changes the way they lace and fit.
Best Suit Pairing: Captoe shoes are incredibly versatile and appropriate for nearly any business or formal event. Their clean lines and structured look make them ideal for a business suit or power suit—think a crisp, well-tailored navy, grey, or black suit. They’re also a great match with dark wool trousers for a sharp, polished appearance.
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Tip: Captoes add a bit of visual interest without being over-the-top, so they’re perfect for interviews, office meetings, or any professional setting.
Brogues
What Are They? Brogues are defined by decorative perforations and serrated edges along the shoe's seams. These little details give brogues a more casual, rugged feel compared to the sleek styles of captoes and monks. Brogues can range from the subtle, semi-formal half-brogues to the fully perforated full brogues (or wingtips), with the latter being the most decorative and relaxed style.
Best Suit Pairing: Brogues pair wonderfully with business casual and smart-casual suits. They can easily be dressed down with tweed or flannel suits, as well as chinos and corduroys. A well-fitted, mid-weight grey or brown suit works beautifully with brogues, offering a bit of flair without crossing into too informal territory.
Tip: Opt for dark brogues with minimal detailing for a more formal look, or embrace the full wingtip style with a lighter-colored suit or more casual attire for a weekend or social event.
Final Thoughts
Each of these shoes—monk, captoe, and brogue—has its own place in the wardrobe, and their versatility extends across various suit types. If you’re looking for a formal, classic style, captoes are your go-to. For something a little different and more stylish, monk shoes are a statement choice. Meanwhile, brogues offer the perfect balance of casual and formal, making them ideal for smart-casual to business-casual affairs. When choosing a pair, think about the tone of the event or setting, the formality of your suit, and your personal style. Whichever you choose, make sure they’re polished and well-maintained to complete your look.
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